PARTICIPANTE STORIES: Lydia Zacharis on her role at Net-a-Porter, Chemena Kamali’s Chloe and the lack of female creative directors in fashion

At Paris fashion week in february, Lydia Zacharis was present for one of the most anticipated shows: Chemena Kamali’s Chloé debut. As a Participante in the fashion world, it was a special moment to witness the vision of a female creative director at a luxury heritage house and it did not disappoint: a stellar collection, lauded by fashion critics and fans alike, paraded down the runway. For Zacharis, moments like this are among the highlights of her role as buying manager at pioneering luxury e-commerce site Net-a-Porter. Here, she talks about her career trajectory, Chemena Kamali’s Chloe and the need for more female representation in leadership positions in fashion.

Text and Interview by Joy Kaunda

What were the touch points with fashion that made you want to participate in the industry?

Fashion was part of my psyche since I can remember myself. My very first touch point was my grandmother, an air hostess during the golden age of Olympic airlines, then owned by Onassis. She travelled the world and would bring back trends and styles ahead of stores, at the time in the absence of social media and limited TV exposure the impact of your social circle was really profound. She was allegedly one of the first women to wear denim in Greece!

Then it was the Fashion Magazines – I grew up when the likes of Vogue were still very much of an authority and set the pace of the industry. I absolutely loved perusing their Runway issues for hours. My move to London to study Economics opened my eyes to the scale of business further; spending my Saturdays in Oxford Street’s flagship Topshop or at the Victoria & Albert museum only reinforced my passion which got to be nurtured through some internships, followed by my first full-time job within Harrods’ Buying team, a bit before joining NET-A-PORTER.

There are many different roles within the industry, what drew you to your current role?

It was the ability to combine the very analytical left side of my brain with my creativity and foresight that drew me into the role as I was looking for something which would be on the business side of fashion, however intimately linked to product. The role has proven perfect for me, we manage a business and need to constantly be analysing sales patterns, forecast budgets and negotiate whilst seeing a breadth of creative collections ahead of everyone else and making educated bets on what women will want to wear several months away.

“As a Buyer you need to be exposed to wider culture, global politics and social media trends in order to have your pulse on the market at all times, then balance numbers and analysis with taste and intuition which makes for a complex cocktail.”

What steps did you take to get to where you are today in your career?

I have been fascinated by Net-a-Porter since my adolescent years, when I came across this new “online, shoppable luxury fashion magazine” which became an endless source of education and inspiration. Working for such a disruptive platform was a dream so I applied a few times until an opportunity came up, and in the meantime built my understanding and knowledge of the industry through relevant talks, exhibitions, workshops and internships. Fast forward more than a decade later, I have held multiple roles within their Buying team and worked with almost all categories – evolving from an Assistant Buyer to now a Buying Manager.

At a time when more people than ever are participating in fashion, I wish…

It is now so easy to partake in conversations and movements around fashion, anyone can have an opinion which has its benefits but we are also subject to unprecedented rhythms and expectations of ongoing change. I wish that we could take the time to pause, take in and appreciate beautiful collections and product more, allow them to live for longer and give Creative Directors the benefit of time too – they are under a lot of pressure to deliver constant newness and commercial results immediately.

There are also too many brands being launched, whilst barriers to entry have really reduced and everyone is able to drive a DTC business if they have a compelling proposition, I do not think that the required market due diligence is often conducted to identify why the brand needs to exist, what gap does it feel or how it differentiates itself to other competing ones, which does not lead to longevity.

Participante you are inspired by?

I admire women who multi-task with grace – who have opted for careers which fulfil and energise them, whilst allowing themselves to have social and personal lives but who also acknowledge how hard it can be to do it all, and show vulnerability too. Women who excel in whatever they decide to focus on but remain kind and fair, also open to new ideas and perspectives even despite their experience and expertise. I am lucky to have many such women around me – from my own mother to several friends, both in creative and non-creative industries, and increasingly channel my energy towards them. Women who are lifting up and bringing out the best of other women, knowing that collectively we are so much stronger.

What do you think about the conversation on the lack of female creative directors at the big fashion houses?

It is troubling to see that despite Fashion being such a female-centric industry, Creative Director and Senior Executive roles remain largely male. Progress is slow, the reality is that juggling high profile jobs with parenting, under intense media scrutiny and aggressive business growth targets remains a tough balancing act, derailing some incredible women. You would hope that by now this is no longer the case, however it is.

I appreciate that there are many men who can really understand how women want to dress and show a lot of sensibility around empowering them through fashion, delivering amazing collections, but I would like to see more women being nurtured and retained in such roles.

“Chemena understood and presented the brand in such a respectful, effortless, yet fresh and emotional way. There was history in this collection, dream and a desire to be that cool, boho woman again”

What advice would you give regarding navigating the fashion space now?

Resilience, focus and kindness.

Fashion has always been a very competitive, yet democratic industry – passion and persistence takes you a long way, irrespective of your background. It is not easy to get your foot in the door but once you do, there are many opportunities to grow if you work hard, are kind, have taste and vision. Something that I had myself underestimated and avoided as a student but now see so much power in, is getting experience on the shop floor and being open to gaining experience with smaller brands too – vital in understanding the relationship between the customer and the product.

For brands, where the current environment is one of caution, an extra laser approach to their DNA and hero products is required, with a clear point of view and target customer, along with investing in creating a strong community around them.

You were present for Chemena Kamali’s debut show at Chloe, what did you love about the collection?

It was one of those shows where you realised instantly that something magical was unravelling in front of you and that you were experiencing a cultural moment which will be referenced for years to come. Chemena understood and presented the brand in such a respectful, effortless, yet fresh and emotional way. There was history in this collection, dream and a desire to be that cool, boho woman again; also a very well merchandised collection that as a Buyer you know immediately will prove a success. The set up was paired back, allowing the clothes to speak for themselves – beautifully fluid dresses which were given an edge by being styled with soft leather jackets and patterned capes, new takes on brand archival bags such as the bracelet ring style, studded micro-heel clog flats which I envision becoming very popular and amazing accents of serpent-like jewelry. Nostalgic but powerfully modern.

What collections and trends are you inspired by for the upcoming season (FW24)?

I am enjoying seeing a general return to both elegance and individualism, after a few seasons of casual, quiet dressing. From slimmer silhouettes such as tailored pants, pencil skirts and lingerie detailing, to kitten heels and smart flats, structured bags and vintage-feel jewellery (think of statement earrings, thick chains, brooches, belts with interested hardware and personality hats), and a renewed emphasis on styling again, women are encouraged to embrace their feminine side but with an angle of empowerment over submission. Brands such as the Row, Prada and Bottega Veneta, along with smaller accessory brands Savette, Métier and Sophie Buhai have been instrumental here.

I am also really leaning into the resurgence of the modern collegiate style, spearheaded by brands such as Bally and Dries Van Noten, with cute polo shirts, retro-feel sneakers and boat shoes, high-waist denim and knitted sets.

Find us on Instagram @ParticipanteJournal. Find @LydiaZacharis on Instagram.